I don't suggest switching wires between the extruder and the heated bed except as a last resort to make sure your bed is working, but if you have resistance readings going through the bed and wires then your bed is not likely broken and this would be an unnecessary risk.test the mosfet for the heated bed with your multimeter (same way you tested everything else).It's probably a burned out mosfet (buggers are sensitive) but just in case, re-flash your board and hope the problem goes away.If everything checks out so far then cry a little bit.use a multimeter in DC voltage mode, put your black (-) probe on the DC power negative lead, turn on the hotbed and using your red (+) probe make sure you are getting about 12V through all your relevant connections including the fuses (mine are very tiny surface mount fuses, 15a and 30a located right behind the power supply, don't know how standard that is for all printers though).check connections, especially at the screw connectors as they have a nasty habit of getting worn.I seem to have somehow burned out my heated bed mosfet (prior to switching the wires) and have the same problem that you do, I'm just going to buy another board because it's pretty cheap but for the sake of future people with this problem to solve I'd: I re-flashed my board and it still did not work, probably should have done that in reverse order, please learn from that mistake haha. This is pretty much guaranteed to happen due to the amount of current draws the two components use being vastly different. I suggest you be extremely quick and also don't do this by a smoke detector if you attempt it: just in case. I did this on my FLSUN C Cube and it started smoking something fierce and just about lit on fire within seconds of my turning on the extruder with the wires swapped. *For external power please use an external MOSFET/RELAY temperature controller populated two status LEDs (one for each polarity) and a resistorpopulated 1% NTC thermistor B constant 3950 populated thermal cutoff switch for internal power onlypopulated connector for AWG24 - 18 wires Please make sure your power supply support the current drawn by the heated bed.Be extremely cautious if you switch the hot end wires with the hot bed wires as StarWind0 said, only do it for a couple seconds and stop as soon as you've confirmed that temperature is going up. ~ 4.2A (external connector no thermal limit) ~7.5A (external connector no thermal limit)Ģ4V Low power mode 100W approx. ~2.1A (external connector no thermal limit)ġ2V High power mode 90W approx. ~3.3A (using internal power with thermal limited 60C)ġ2V Low power mode 25W approx. or using tinyfab CPU to control the temperature with the tinyfab driver board (order seperately), external temperature wire required to attach to the driver/tinyFab CPU.įor Cetus MK3 stock mainboard, not supported, please concider switching to tinyfab mainboard.ĭimension - X185mm x Y185mm x 3mm thicknessTwo coil design - in series and parallelĬoil Resistance - 1.6 ohms in parallel 5.6ohms in 25C approx.ġ9V Low power mode 65W approx. The 12 pin version includes the temperature sensor wire in the Flat Flex cable (ffc) so no need to attach the external sensor wire.įor Cetus MK1/2 stock mainboard, it can be connect directly to the mainboard via 10 pin FFC cable with max 60c thermal switch. Choose 12pin Version if you do not plan to use with stock MK1/2 mainboard. Unique Aluminium PCB Heated bed custom made for the Tiertime Cetus 3D Printer.Ĭompatible with tinyFab mainboard.
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